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Herring Tying Instructions
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Dougherty's
Herring
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Materials
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Hook: 6/0
2X Heavy / 2X Short Mustad C68S SS or
similar
Thread:
White Danville's Size A
Eyes:
Mirage 3/8" Domed Easy Peel or tape eyes
Gill Plate:
Epoxied markered Prismatic Silver Sili-Skin
Body:
Layer 1 -
Rainbow Shimmer blended with Pearl Blue
Angel Hair
Layer 2 -
Rainbow Shimmer blended with Rainbow Polar
Flash
Layer 3 -
Each side, flair several strands of Lavender
Pearl Flashabou
Layer 4 -
Yellow Yak blended with Yellow Pearl Regular
Shimmerflash
Layer 5 -
Mackerel Slinky Blend blended with Damsel
Blue Angel Hair
Layer 6 -
Several strands of Light Blue Flashabou
Mirage
Layer 7 -
Royal Blue Slinky Fibre tied sparse
Layer 8 -
1/3 Black Slinky Fibre blended with 2/3
Royal Blue Slinky Fibre
Layer 9 -
1/32" Blue Saltwater Holographic Flash
Marker:
Prismacolor Navy Blue over Grey over Light
Blue, Black for detailed lines
Adhesives:
Zap-A-Gap CA+ and Z-Poxy 5-Minute Epoxy
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Step-by-step tying
instructions
Print instructions
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History
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Dougherty's
Herring was created in the spring of 2004.
It was designed with two purposes in mind.
The first was to design a realistic herring
fly. The second, to design a light fly that
fished well in and around the shallow
herring creeks of Martha's Vineyard.Much of
the hook is exposed, but this is by design.
A natural keel is formed when the material
is tied at a 45 degree angle to the hook.
This improves tracking through the water and
reduces line twists. Wide or narrow profiles
can be made simply by spreading the
materials more or less in step 3. Uses for
this fly range from striper to tuna fishing.
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Tying
instructions
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STEP 1:
Hook
positioning. Angle the hook in the vise at
approximately a 45 degree angle. The steep
angle promotes tying one layer over the next
while allowing the bend and point of the
hook to act as a keel when fished.
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STEP 2:
Layering. Begin
thread halfway down the shank and attach
Layer 1. Layer 2 - 9 will follow so as to
finish with Layer 9 being the top. Layer 4,
5 and 6 will be the longest acting as the
tail (~ 8-9"). Layers 1, 2, 3, 7 and 9 will
be the next shortest (~ 5"). Finally, Layer
8 will be the shortest (~ 4"). Tie each
layer in ahead of the previous layer's
wraps.
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STEP 3:
Adhesives. Once
all layers are tied-in, whip-finish, cut
thread and glue with Zap-A-Gap. Once dry,
apply approximately a dime-sized amount of
epoxy to each side of the fly. Slightly
spread materials as epoxy sets promoting a
wide profile. Let dry.
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STEP 4:
Gill Plate. Cut
an appropriate shaped gill plate for each
side using Prismatic Silver Sili-Skin.
Attach gill plates covering previous applied
epoxy. Marker and epoxy entire gill plate.
When epoxy becomes tacky apply an eye to
each side. Once dry, apply fine detail to
the gill plates using a black marker. The
fly is finished, go fish!
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